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A
New C-5 System Complete |
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This is an OLD control box.
Parts were becoming extremely
expensive to repair. Just the
pcboard replacement for this box
costs as much as the complete C5
kit.
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First, turn off power at main
panel and secure panel so no one
is able to accidently turn power
back on. Then drain hot tub.
This unit is a ONE pump system.
The water leaves the pump on the
right, through the heater, and
into a discharge manifold on the
left. In principle most spas are
build like this. There may be
one or two more jet pumps on
some larger models.
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Remove old control. This example
the new and old heater are both
15" long which is common.
In this example you will see a
heavy electrical conduit with
wires on the lower left. This
example the spa is operating on
230v. On some smaller models the
spa may be running on 115v. This
will be CRITICAL to know as you
install the C5.
The heater in this example is
15" so the new heater will fit
perfectly |
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This
spa didn't have a proper sized
existing temperature housing.
Drill new hole in shell (we
include instructions). About
6-8" below water level is good.
Install new housing purchased.
The new sensor housing is a dry
well housing so the temperature
sensor doesn't touch the water.
Drill this hole somewhere on a
flat surface close to the
equipment. |
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In our example we used the C5
with a corded heater. The old
heater placement was about 8"
above the floor of the control
platform. Using the corded
heater made installation a
breeze.
The generation of the new C5 was
the opposite of how the old
control box sat. The incoming
power in the old box cam into
the box from the left. In this
install the power enters on the
right.
Recently the manufacturer of the
C5, realizing most designs the
power comes into the box on the
left, reversed their setup. If
we had the new generation box
the power would come into the
spa on the left like it
originally was. ALL shipments
now include the new style with
power coming in from the
left. |
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The circled area is the new temp
housing we installed above. Once
the housing is installed the new
dry well temperature sensor
slides into the housing. The
opposite end of the sensor cord
has a simple plug into the side
of the control box. |
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If you power you spa with
110-120vac, you need to wire the
incoming power the following
way:
a. The white/neutral wire
connects to NEUTRAL on the
board.
b. You must install a "jumper"
wire the same guage as your
white wire and jump between
Neutral and Line 2.
c. Your black/hot wire is
connected to Line 1
NOTE: Notice the 120v circled in
red. By default the transformer
2 line plug is plugged into the
240v socket. Move plug from
there to 120v for the spa to
operate correctly. |
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If your power is 220-240vac, as
shown, the white/neutral wire is
connected to the NEUTRAL lug on
the board.
The Red/Hot 2 wire connects to
the Line 2.
The Black/Hot 1 wire connects to
the Line 1.
NOTE: By default the red circle
plug is plugged into the 240v
socket. This is correct. No
changes when you are operating
on 220-240v.
NOTE: If you
do NOT have a white neutral wire
its because none of your
equipment is 110-120v. So you
disregard the White/Neutral
incoming shown. |
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The internal white/neutral wires
connected to the Neutral lug
apply 110-120v to each different
component.
The white/neutral wires
connected to Line 2 lug apply
220-240vac to each component it
serves.
To understand, each white wire
has a color line to identify
which component it serves.
As you received the C5 you see 4
white lines go to Neutral and 2
Line 2. By default because its
the most common hot tub setup
these white wires will apply
230v to Pump 1 and 2.
IF you have a 115v motor you
MUST move the white line from
Line 2 to Neutral.
Failure to move will
likely permanently damage your
motor.
If you are operating on 115v,
move the 2 internal white wires
on Line 2 to Neutral. If you
look closely at both the wires
connected to Line 2 you will see
an extra post on each. When you
pull off the connection from the
board you will see you can
piggyback the one of the wires
already on Neutral by pulling
the neutral connection off, move
the Line 2 connectin to neutral,
and piggyback the wire.
KEY To Understanding the
importance of Line 2 and Neutral
As pictured, EVERY component
white wire connected to Neutral
will get 110-120vac IF you have
4 wire connection. If you only
have 3 incoming wires,
Red/Black/Green, you can NOT
have any 110-120v components.
You must have 4 incoming wires
to have any 115v components.
That said, any wires connected
to Neutral will either apply
115v to that component or -0-
volts. Any wires connected to
Line 2 will apply 115v if you
have 115v incoming (not common)
or 230v if you have 220-240v
incoming.
Again, it critical to match the
white wires to the voltage of
your components. |
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Sensor/Cord Install
A. The pressure switch cord
or flow switch plugs into
this socket.
B. OH Sensor Cord. The
overheat sensor plugs into
this socket.
C. Temp Sensor Cord. The
temperature sensor plugs
into this socket.
D. Topside cord. The topside
cord plugs into this socket.
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The T7s and T8s have TWO program
levels. The first, PL1 sets your
spa for the way you personally
want it to operate. See the
manual for that.
The second level, PL2 is
CRITICAL program
level because it identifies to
the C5 what your particular
components are. This programming
is what we will explain.
The Three buttons you will focus
on are AUX, +, and -. Aux will
get you into the PL2 and + and -
get you through the levels.
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Programming
the T7s and T8s
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Note
Topside Manual pages 10-13
> Press and hold AUX button
until it beeps and you see PL1
on screen.
> Immediately Release and Push
again the Aux button and hold.
> When the screen says PL2
release and press - button.
> The screen will say 1-1 or
1-2. As noted on page 11, this
tells the C5 board to know what
Pump 1 is. By default the board
is expecting only ONE jet pump
and its 2 speed. If that is your
configuration then you don't
need to change anything. If you
have Two Jet pumps and pump #1
is 2 speed, press the + button
and the screen should go to 1-2.
That is a 2 speed #1 jet pump.
Press the - button and it will
save and go to level 2.
> 2-1, 2, or 3. 2-1 is for one
jet pump systems. 2-2 is when
Jet pump #2 is one speed and you
the topside to say HIGH when you
turn on jet pump 2. If rare
applications the #2 jet pump is
2 speed so you set it to 2-3.
Press the - button and it will
save and go to level 3.
>Level 3 is for spa with a THIRD
jet pump OR Air Blower.
Press the - button and it will
save and go to level 4.
> Level 4 gives you 5 choices.
Most spas are either operating
on 50a gfci circuit (most
common) or 115v cord with gfci
protection. Level 4 tells the C5
what power you are operating.
What level you set the unit at
determines what components will
be turned off when others are
on. 4-1 which is the most common
tells the unit to heat even if
jet pump 1 and 2 are on but TURN
OFF HEATER if you have jet 1, 2,
and 3 on. WHY? Simple. You
wiring can only handle so much
current. If you operate too many
components at one time it can
damage components because the
voltage/amperage is sufficient
OR damage your wiring. Both are
costly and either can cause a
fire.
Since wiring a hot tub with 6
guage wire and 50a gfci circuit
is most popular, almost
everything can work at once.
Less wire size or ability of the
circuit, you can tell the C5 to
keep you safe and protect your
house/hot tub.
Besides 230v 50a circuit being
popular, the second most common
is a 115v 20a circuit. If this
is what you have chose 4-5
Press the - button and it will
save and go to level 4.
> For most you can skip this
level to the 5-1, most common.
For those with a circulation
pump that runs 24/7 you have
other choices. But those are not
common choices.
Press AUX to save and return to
standard readout.
You are good to go. |
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Making
it work for you |
Normally you can ignore
programming the PL1 until
you want. These are all
enduser preferred setup. Let
review what you can do.
Heater Mode: The C5 allows
you to operate the unit on
Standard (Stnd) or Economy
(Econ). Economy does NOT
mean the spa will be somehow
more economical but that it
won't heat. The purpose is
if you are going out of town
or not using your spa it
will save the cost of
heating a spa but still
clean/filter like normal.
System Time: Set the unit to
your local time.
Filter Cycle 1 and 2: You
can set when, how often, and
how long. The default is 2
hours/twice a day. For most
this is fine but you can
change as desired.
Purge: An excellent feature
if turned on is the C5 will
turn on pumps/blower to move
all water it can through the
system. If minimizes
stagnant water in piping
that can happen with this
feature.
Time Display: You can either
have it on or off.
Beep: Turn beep on/off as
you desire.
Temp Lock: You can turn this
feature on to hinder someone
changing the water temp.
Toggling. You can flip the
digital screen if you want
to read from a different
viewpoint
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